A heatwave, Hollywood, and hospitality all contributed to Todd Snyder’s relaxed yet elegant La Playa collection. Having settled on a ’50s photo of Gary Cooper and John Wayne in Acapulco as a starting point, the designer went to Italy where he formed a bond with Riccardo Bruni of Lyria fabrics.
“We communicated through fabric and it was just unbelievable.” The results of the partnership are subtle but effective, as in a classic Guayabera shirt unexpectedly cut in a dobby cloth. But it’s the pants that commanded most of the attention. They have higher waists (something also seen in an exaggerated form at the ready-the wear shows), a looser fit, and pleats.
Snyder experienced the extreme heat of the Italian summer, and as if in anticipation of a repeat performance, many looks here had a sort of cooling functionality. These ranged from short shorts in a variety of lengths to a navy openwork cardigan that can be worn in place of a blazer. Also of note is a versatile mesh tank, to wear solo or use as a layering piece—perhaps under one of Snyder’s reimagined oversized power suits.
Having asked himself how to make something familiar different, Snyder, as is his way, focused on “proportions and fabric.” What distinguishes this collection, he said, was the juxtaposition of the classic “against things that are not as known or as current.” Everything from ’70s-style gym gear to Jazz-era Riviera style is in the mix, plus pajama and safari touches. The edit might not be tight, but the beachy message is loud and clear.