It seems that most of the buzz behind these products is anecdotal; as Margarita Lolis, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon based in New Jersey, points out, there’s a lack of scientific data behind their benefits. “The effectiveness of these products may have been studied in a small sample of patients, so efficacy claims may not be accurate,” she says. “The optimal dosing and frequency of application is also a question mark. While the concept behind spicule serums is innovative and has potential benefits, more scientific research, and clinical trials are needed to confirm the claimed effectiveness marketed by brands.”
Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist, echos this point: “While there is ample research on microneedle patches and devices, I haven’t seen a whole lot of literature about this kind of approach of just mixing them into products, which is also giving me a lot of pause regarding the truth in the claims.”
Are microneedling serums safe?
These microneedling-inspired products aren’t without concerns from skin-care experts. For starters, if they are exfoliating the epidermis or potentially making micro-injuries, they could damage the skin barrier, which protects your skin from external aggressors like pollution and germs and maintains its hydration. As Dr. Rabach explains, the way the skin barrier is altered needs to be carefully controlled. “When done under the supervision of a board-certified dermatologist, we can make controlled injury through the epidermis to the dermis safely and with good results,” she says. “These creams seem to want to circumvent that in a DIY manner.”
Regardless of how innovative spicules are, they could do more harm than good. Specifically, Dr. Rabach highlights that spicules may not be uniform in a formula. “It’s a new physical exfoliant with irregular particles. My concern is that people could get abrasions, cuts, burns.”
King tells Allure she’s tried two of these so-called microneedling serums. “The first one I tried felt fine,” she says. “The second burned my face, so I discarded it.”
Dr. Lolis says using formulas with spicules could cause irritation or allergic contact dermatitis (especially for those with sensitive skin) and overusing them could contribute to eczema, rosacea, and acne flare-ups. For those who do choose to try these serums, Dr. Palm stresses the importance of patch testing on cleansed skin and following the manufacturer’s recommendation to avoid irritation. You also might want to patch-test your entire skin-care routine, as even products you’ve been using with no issues could suddenly contribute to irritation when you add these new serums to the mix. (You are, after all, causing microchannel injuries to the epidermis.)