Every night a group of women take out their skincare tools. They use cleansers, creams, and overnight masks, then put on a bonnet, a mouthguard, a chin strap, and tape over their lips. They sleep on their backs, bodies slathered in oil and when they awake, they hit record, revealing the removal process. The result? A fresh face that resembles a glazed donut.
Welcome to the morning shed, a new trend signifying our morbid desire to be “perpetually hot.” At least, except for those moments we’re in repose. On TikTok, the phrase “morning sheds” is viral with 75 million posts and counting. Though these videos may seem pretty innocent, but is there something more sinister happening here?
With this trend, the goal is to take advantage of the time you sleep by adopting a routine that upon stirring, has done work for you. And while some of this routine is harmless (a silk hair bonnet, for example), others include potential risk. Mouth tape, which has surged in popularity because of its alleged ability to help with snoring or face-slimming, can also potentially lead to difficultly breathing and limiting oxygen flow (not to mention the adhesive can cause skin irritation).
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Purvisha Patel says there is scientific evidence showing that occluded products can result in dewy skin, but she warns this trend is almost always “a recipe for disaster” without guidance from a skincare expert. Active ingredients can become more concentrated if topped with a too-occlusive patch or balm and lead to a breakout or diluted to the point of being totally neglibile.
At the same time, Sara Botta, a licensed esthetician and Ultraceuticals skincare ambassador, says many of these products should not be left on the skin longer than directed and can end up irritating the skin. Yes, a good nighttime routine is important—Botta recommends retinoids, DNA repair products, and a moisturizer with scientifically proven ingredients—the morning shed is taking routines too far. So, why is this happening?
With the beauty and wellness industries merging, according to beauty critic Jessica Defino, we’ve recently seen more products focusing on maximizing sleep. “The thought behind this trend seems to be that because the skin does a lot of healing, repairing, and regenerating while we sleep it must be better to use products and gadgets like peel-off masks, patches, and firming wear overnight,” says Botta. While Patel says these videos are gratifying, comparing it to our fascination with Dr. Pimple Popper—it’s all about the reveal. “We wait to see what’s going on under the layers, there’s gratification in the end,” she says.