Moreover, the actual layers of our skin—the epidermis, which makes up the outermost layer, and the dermis—become thinner with age. “This leads to decreased function of the skin barrier, crepiness, fragility, and increased dryness,” says Dr. Castilla. “Retinols stimulate cell production in these layers and help thicken the epidermis and increase blood supply to the dermal layer.”
What percent of retinol is best for aging skin?
Generally speaking, retinol concentrations can range between 0.025 to 1%. “When starting out, a good rule is to use the lowest percentage—especially for dry or sensitive skin types,” says Dr. Castilla.
That’s because “retinol can be associated with side effects like skin irritation, redness, and flaking,” Dr. Camp says. So, in beginning with a lower concentration and starting with less frequent application—such as once or twice a week—you may be able to better tolerate it.
Then, once you’re able to tolerate a given concentration, you can consider increasing it for even better benefits. “Those who have already been using retinol regularly or who do not have skin sensitivity issues may benefit from products with higher concentrations of retinol, such as 0.5 to 1.0%,” says Dr. Camp.
What to look for in a retinol for mature skin
First, consider the type of retinoid you’re using. (A point of nuance: Retinoid is the umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives, including retinol, but also refers to prescription-level forms.) There’s a lot of variation between the retinoids available over-the-counter. For instance, “retinal is different from retinol because it does not need to undergo the same number of conversion steps to form the active compound retinoic acid,” says Dr. Camp. “As such, retinal products may offer more potency than those that contain retinol.”
On the other hand, “retinyl esters, such as retinyl acetate or palmitate, are less irritating—but also likely less effective,” says Dr. Castilla. This may work in your favor if you have very sensitive skin, but the results may be underwhelming if you don’t have concerns about tolerability.
Consider the concentration as well. For one, each retinoid molecule is different, so “you can not compare concentrations between different products,” says Dr. Castilla. “They are all different strengths when compared at the same concentration.” For instance, a 0.025% retinol is different from tretinoin at 0.025%. So, once you determine the retinoid you prefer, then factor in the concentration. (The recommendations we share above are for retinol specifically.)
And finally, it also helps to look for a formula that you enjoy using, because retinol is very much a long game. “You may start to see signs of improvement about 12 weeks after starting to use retinols consistently,” says Dr. Castilla. “However, the true benefit is consistent use over years.”