Floaty gowns in pretty macaroon pastels, over-embroidered sequin column dresses, and peony and wildflower prints all gathered together at an 18th century chateau just outside of Paris. Sounds like a fairly typical Monique Lhuillier outing, right? Look again, change is afoot as the designer focuses on separates alongside occasion dressing. As Lhuillier put it: “I embraced the femininity that I do every season, but there are a lot of new elements in this collection. I feel like it is more versatile than in the past.” And how. A cropped white cardigan with hammered gold buttons worn over a fit-and-flare dress of powder pink caviar lace transformed the model into a latter day C. Z. Guest. The designer said a black column with an apron that opened in front represented “my modern day Audrey [Hepburn].”
Nostalgia has a certain appeal, but it was off-the-moment looks that elicited the wows. Let’s start with the knits: A sturdy stretch material was used for a flirty, ruffled one-shoulder number, and cashmere was utilized for a very Barbie-friendly ensemble with wonderful proportions featuring a higher-waisted pencil skirt that met the button of a cropped bralette, over which was worn an abbreviated cardi. Next to these form-fitted knits, the tweed options for day felt wishy-washy, not quite soft or structured enough.
The separates idea carried over into evening quite successfully. There was a scuba-like top in black sequins of an incredible gloss that could be worn alternatively with a ball skirt or a trumpet hem knit skirt. The midriff silhouette was also used for a three-piece evening look consisting of a regal trained skirt, sleeves attached to a band of fabric that sat under the bust, and a gossamer diamante bra, light as a breath of air. That same piece was layered under a bodysuit of the same material to which was added a detachable white collar and black bow. A black bias-cut slip skirt completed this seductive look, an encapsulation of Parisienne sophistication and glamour.