Ageing is perfectly natural, said makeup artist Andrea Ali, but “when you add years on your face because of makeup, that’s when I have a problem with it”.
One of the main makeup mistakes Andrea witnesses is “too much of everything”, such as concealer. Andrea said: “If you’re going to apply too much concealer, it’s going to look really bad because we have a lot of movement around the eyes and it will crease and crack.”
Using her go-to concealer, Huda Beauty Faux Filter Concealer (in shade Nougat, for her skin tone), Andrea demonstrates how using too much is ageing – even when she attempts to blend it in using the Westman Atelier Blender Blush.
While full-on concealer can look great for video and photoshoots, it will not look great in real life and will only enhance the visibility of fine lines.
Instead of applying a triangle of concealer under the eye, Andrea advised to “apply a tiny little bit” just at the tear trough and the outer corner of the eyes.
Then using the blender brush, you can blend the product under the eyelids to brighten up the eye area and to “look more youthful”.
While “baking” is a popular makeup trend, which is effective for performers on stage to help prevent products from melting under the production lights, it’s not recommended for everyday use.
Andrea said: “Baking can look good if you’re 16 and have no wrinkles, because there is nothing to crease on you, right. But if you’re 35 and older, I believe that it’s just unnecessary.”
Taking her MAC Brush 133 (a tapered brush that is now discontinued), Andrea takes a “small amount of powder” – the Givenchy Prisme Libre in 3 Voile Rose – and taps it across where she out the concealer.
Moving on to conturing, Andrea said: “The reality is, countering after a certain age will age you. The older you get, the less you want to contour, and the more you want to focus on applying products that will warm up your skin.”
Instead of using a contour, Andrea recommended a cream bronzer; she uses Anastasia Beverly Hills Cream Bronzer in Amber.
Andrea said using this product on top of the cheeks – and not in the hollows of the cheek – “makes a big difference because a cream bronze will look like skin”.
“Also when I bronze I like to apply a small amount on the forehead and the brow bone” to lift upwards. Eyebrows are an important consideration as they can completely change your face, and Andrea isn’t too much a fan of micro-blading on older ladies.
Preferring a more natural look, Andrea uses a clear eyebrow gel – specifically Benefit 24h brow Setter – to lift her brows. She then uses Glossier Brow Flick in Brown, Andrea adds “hair-like strokes”.
As for black eyeliner around the eyes, Andrea warned it could add between five to even “15 years” onto your face. “It not only ages you, but it gives you a very severe look,” Andrea said about black eyeliner, especially if it’s on the lower lash line. She added: “Please don’t.”
To make eyes “pop” Andrea suggested applying mascara from the root (she uses Sweed Lashes Mascara in Dark Brown) – and only the top lashes – and to use brown, taupe or other colours to line the eyes. “Just not black,” she emphasised.
When lining the eyes, make sure to do so “close to the lash line” – Andrea uses Make Up For Ever Artist Pencil in Limitless Brown – and then use a finger to smudge it.
She then applies the brown pencil to the outer corners of her lower lash line and, again, smudges it out with her finger.
Finally, when it comes to lipstick, frosty and metallic lipsticks need to go, Andrea assured. Metallic lipstick emphasise the natural lines on the lips, which can be ageing, and nude lipsticks with no pink or peach, and no lipliner, will drain the colour from your face.