“I’ve never been a bling-bling girl. So I just wanted to go for it with the chains and beads.” So said Luis de Javier after presenting his spring 2024 collection. Embellishment isn’t the only new thing for the Spanish-born, London-based designer. Other firsts included showing in the city of Los Angeles in a space smack in the middle of Hollywood, just above Sunset Boulevard; overcoming his fear of working with jersey; and bringing on a new stylist—his mentor, Riccardo Tisci.
Against a techno soundtrack, in a space inspired by the famed Berlin club Berghain, de Javier presented a collection that has evolved from his previous ones, with a matured sense of proportion and volume. He continued his exploration of political commentary through clothing inspired by Spain’s 1990s hardcore rave movement, La Ruta del Bacalao. Since it was shut down by an oppressive government, the collection imagines a utopia in which the movement would still be alive today.
De Javier spoke of referencing the early silhouettes of Cristobal Balenciaga and common fabrics. “It’s about working with whatever you have, and just flip it and reverse it and turn it into something beautiful,” he said. Corseting was the common denominator, as it was in past seasons, communicated in different materials such as leather, canvas, and latex, and layered under and over other pieces. To master the difficult-to-use latex, de Javier spent a few weeks at a factory outside of Manchester, England, working to get it right.
A latex coat with exaggerated shoulders draped fluidly; constructed as a corset or dress, it covered the body as if it were poured over it. The bling came by way of chains and cords draped over jersey dresses, and unlikely materials, such as extra-long ballerina nails, that were reimagined as dramatic fringe on an asymmetrical evening dress.
He faced his fear of jersey by crafting full-length mock neck t-shirt dresses reminiscent of the Limelight crowd, provocatively repurposing the Pirelli tire logo to spell out ‘punta’, which translates to whore in Spanish. Crisp cotton boxers poked out from pleated and low-slung wide-legged trousers, the latter of which would make just as much sense in broad daylight as they would at an after-hours club.
Mixing club kid vibes and couture has been done before, often to regrettable results. Tisci’s mentorship lends refinement to de Javier’s vision. Where his past collections had obvious references, this one is more subtle, and what might have previously been rough around the edges now came with the romantic darkness Tisci is known for. Tisci’s touch in the styling was evident as well, via the restrained color palette, the delicate mix of lace and leather, and belts cinched tightly across the bust. The jersey t-shirts worn over the head recalled a nun’s veil, which is in line with the religious references Tisci used during his time at Givenchy.
The fearlessness with which de Javier approaches his designs is intended to challenge social norms and provoke thought, but his genderless creations have transcended the underground club scene he originally set out to dress. They’ve become popular with party girls, and he counts Beyoncé, Rihanna, and Kim Kardashian among the celebrities who’ve worn his clothing. The beauty of this collection is that it is indeed the sum of its parts. There are plenty of pieces that can be interpreted in different ways, for different people, so there truly is something for everyone at this party.