The house of Lanvin is in a transitional stage once again. In April of this year, Bruno Sialelli, who oversaw Lanvin’s collections since 2019, departed. Around this time, the company also announced “Lanvin Lab,” which has been described as “an experimental space inviting creative partnerships with proven and rising international talents.” It has since been revealed that the first Lanvin Lab endeavor is with the rapper Future. At London’s Wireless Festival, he wore unreleased all-over logo Lanvin overalls–previewing, possibly, the experiment.
Until a new creative director is announced (supposedly this coming fall), Lanvin’s seasonal collections are being spearheaded by its in-house studio. Resort 2024, with womenswear and menswear (menswear is classified here as spring 2024), represents a “restoration of the ultimate chic,” said CEO Siddhartha Shukla. Lanvin is Paris’s longest-operating fashion maison, and the goal, with the in-between collections, is to reflect this longevity and prestige through an uptick in sophistication while still remaining of-the-moment.
The new offering has intricate diamond-lattice knits, slinky little knit tops that look great for evening in their casual but refined insouciance, Fortuny-pleated skirts with inlaid Art Deco flourishes, and languid, lean lines. Glamour is layered in through all-over paillette embroideries and delicate chainmail wings. The menswear side of things looks more straightforward–well-cut and versatile and offhandedly stylish. It’s not a huge stride forward, but it’s not a tentative baby step, either–there’s a feeling of optimism in the air. Call it a confident strut.