That illuminating vacation seven years ago launched annual visits to Hong Kong. By my last pre-Covid trip, over Christmas 2019, I’d noticed quite a few changes. Streets were dimmer, as more and more neon signs, one of Hong Kong’s iconic characteristics, were being removed. Even quintessential experiences like dining at a dai pai dong (open-air restaurant) were slowly disappearing. Then there were the protests, which radically shifted the energy.
The Mongkok District of Hong Kong.Photo: Getty Images
But the destination was also undergoing a positive transformation, if you looked at it through the lens of culture and travel. In 2018, Tai Kwun, a heritage and arts center on the grounds of a former Central Police Station Compound, opened in Central after a decade of work. A year later, the $2.6 billion Victoria Dockside multi-use development at the tip of the Kowloon Peninsula was completed. Not only was the Tsim Tsa Tsui waterfront (including the Avenue of Stars) revamped by James Corner Field Operations, the same firm behind NYC’s High Line, but an entirely new social hub had materialized by way of K11 Musea, a high-end mall complete with destination dining, a rotating collection of art, and public green and outdoor spaces. To top it all off, Rosewood’s new flagship property at the eastern end of the project, offered well-heeled travelers luxurious accommodations and spectacular views of Victoria Harbour, multiple dining options including the Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Chaat, and one of the finest hotel wellness centers in the world.