It’s homecoming season at Holzweiler. After putting on two shows in London, the team headed back to Norway—not to Oslo, where they are headquartered, but way, way up north to the island of Krøttøya where the lookbook was photographed. A former military base, this tiny 1.3-square-kilometer rocky area, which is accessed by boat, is now inhabited mostly by fishermen in painted wooden houses, the interiors of which were a starting point for some of the lace, hand crochet, and florals in the collection. Yet the vibe is fresh. Said Maria Skappel: “we wanted to bring the energy of two young people coming to this island, maybe visiting their childhood home or their grandparents… [and] exploring the memories of the past from these people that live there.” The lived-in aesthetic felt just right, too.
Keeping things up-to-date were delightful details such as long shorts, sun-faded khakis with curved seams, patchworked fishermen sweaters with a new cursive logo, and the perfect plaid shirt. The sporty sunglasses are an IYKYK touch; they’re very “much a Norwegian thing,” said Skappel. And while they are trending now in Oslo, “in general, people always dress very sporty.” And they usually layer, and not just for styling. The weather is variable and people spend lots of time outside. Note the thin sweaters to wear one-on-top-of-the-other and the intarsia pull-overs which are effectively postcards of Krøttøya’s naturescape.
Recalibration is a concept that came up during the spring season, and you really get the sense that Holzweiler has returned to center with this collection. Though titled Memories, it can serve as a blueprint for the future. The strength of this brand is in being authentic to its Norwegian roots, building on knitwear (a national patrimony) and translating the functional and outdoorsy element of the local wardrobe into fashion that can work anywhere in the world.
Globalization can make the world feel flat, but local flavor gives fashion a sense of dimensionality. Plus, Holzweiler is an upbeat, grounded brand. “At this time, it’s either you have to go full into the political side…or you have to take the other angle and try to communicate something a bit more positive… and just focus within and try to find what really matters to you,” said Skappel. “That’s the angle we took on this collection; it’s [tied] to memories and also belonging, as in, ‘This is Norway, this is our culture.’ ” Spring’s offering feels like a warm welcome.