Ironically for a designer who resides in London, a city known for its gloomy and gray weather, Eudon Choi has a deep love for sunshine. Choi took a trip to Paris when designing his spring 2025 collection; he stopped by the artist Cy Twombly’s photographic exhibition and found that the two had a few things in common. “Twombly’s photography wasn’t the main focus of his work, but I was drawn into the beautiful light of his photographs,” explained Choi. “He just captured the everyday stuff like his home and work, but I loved that sensibility. Then I started to imagine what sunny weather encapsulates throughout the day from morning to dawn and that mood was the starting point for this collection.”
Twombly’s influence was present throughout the lookbook, not only in the way it was shot with an emphasis on the high and low lights of the photographs but also through the fabrications. This season, one of Choi’s hero textiles included a rayon crepe that came in both a golden yellow to represent the light, and a darker slate to represent the shadows. The opening look of the collection, a charcoal dress in the fabrication, featured tie detailings that started at the side of the ribcage and cascaded down towards the front for a daring yet sensual feel. Additionally, the same dress in yellow was styled with a pair of matching gauzy pants. At points where the tunic and pants briefly overlapped at the midriff, the transparency was a bit more muted offering a different look.
As an experienced tailor, Choi also brought in his craftsmanship to elevate classic pieces like utility shirts and blazers for a unique look. While for most people, the button is just the tool to fasten your shirts and coats, Choi used them to shape and structure his pieces. On a safari shirt, two pockets cinched at the waist when buttoned, but created a more A-line effect when left open. To avoid having a “flat” effect on the shoulders, Choi added a button at the cuff to create dimension. Standout pieces also included this season’s take on tailored jackets. An earthy green jacket, upon closer inspection, featured distressing details that created what Choi called “a summer version of tweed.” And instead of using traditional buttons for this cropped jacket, the designer experimented with tie detailing. When the strands are tied, the jacket gives a more feminine feel, while open it gives a fringe detailing.
In his press notes, Choi mentioned that this season he sought to “encapsulate the emotional depth and lyricism of Twombly’s world, offering pieces that blend artful design with effortless wearability.” While the designer is already known for his impeccable tailoring and draping, this season he proved he is also able to merge his craftsmanship with an artistic take.