Since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2022, Charlie Constantinou has built a cultish reputation as a purveyor of gleefully expressive gorpcore.“My work is very much based around adaptability and how you can transition between different environments,” he said after today’s show, “but when you look at a lot of technical wear and outwear brands, it’s always very much limited [in terms of] silhouette. I’ve always loved technicality, but I’m always trying to be more imaginative in thinking about what that could look like.”
For Charlie, the answer lies in abiding by the familiar doctrines of technical wear—deadstock ripstop nylons with contrast zip details abounded for spring, lending themselves to parachute pants, tactical vests and the pleats of miniskirts. What made them stand out was less the cut of the pieces—which, it should be noted, was certainly competent, but the evocative hues in which each one was hand-dyed.
Exhibiting the flair of a master colorist, each piece was dappled in the ombré hues of a scorched desert landscape: cotton drill kilts that gradated from lemon yellow to dark, humus brown; grey jersey tops swaddled in tight, cape-like drapes, printed with flame orange swirls; puckered deadstock nylon backpacks and cotton Bermuda shorts in stony marbled washes.
Preexisting fans of the brand will no doubt be glad to see Constantinou developing his approach to bringing natural color textures to the synthetics-heavy world of techwear, but the most interesting developments came by way of the designer’s most comprehensive womenswear offering to date, anchored in an impressive knitwear offering. Fitted vests and column skirts came in cotton bouclés etched with craggy graphics—they were, in fact, mesh panels integrated into the pieces. Naturally, there was a technical consideration at hand, with the construction bringing breathability to pieces, allowing them to be worn in the searing climates Constantinou drew inspiration from. Very cool knitwear, if you will.