While Karl Lagerfeld was alive, the iconoclast—and iconic—German designer anointed a couple of successors for his lifetime post at Chanel.
First came Hedi Slimane. Fashion urban mythology chalks this up to Lagerfeld having been one of Slimane’s most vocal supporters, famously stating he shed weight to be able to wear his tailoring for Dior Homme, as he shared in an interview in 2004. The idea, fashion chatter said, had been to onboard Slimane at Chanel to oversee the launch of a menswear line under Lagerfeld, with the latter priming the French designer to eventually take over for him. Chanel denied any plans to be working with Slimane—or on a menswear launch—back in 2017, though when Viard exited the house most fingers inevitably pointed to Slimane once more. The plan, of course, did not materialise. It just happens to be one of fashion’s favourite unfulfilled love stories.
There was also Haider Ackermann. In 2010, Lagerfeld said that, while he had “a contract for life”, the matter of his succession depended on who he’d hand the house to: “At the moment, I’d say Haider Ackermann,” he declared. A year later, he changed his tune when he told W magazine: “Not especially. It’s not his world, I don’t think.” Ackermann was appointed creative director at Tom Ford in September 2024. He is one of the few designers of his stature who was not rumored to have interviewed for the Chanel job.
Lagerfeld’s passing in 2019 shook the industry to a halt. Who, if anyone, could take over for Karl Lagerfeld, who, having taken the job in 1983, revolutionized the luxury fashion industry and redefined the role of the creative director? This morning, Chanel announced that Matthieu Blazy, who last week exited Bottega Veneta after a stellar three years, would be taking on the role of artistic director of fashion at the storied house. As it turns out, he’s just the right man for the job.
Lagerfeld’s right hand Virginie Viard, who worked with him first at Chloé and then at Chanel, was first named his successor in 2019. It was a somewhat surprising, if not confusing, appointment. Viard was well-versed in Lagerfeld-isms, and, most of all, Chanel. Her hand was softer and pragmatic; her clothes designed with a focus on wearability rather than fantasy. Still, Viard’s collections often received lukewarm reviews, and it became harder and harder to shake off the feeling that her creative leadership was temporary. She exited in June 2024, having had the thankless job of carrying Chanel through the pandemic and serving as the bridge between Lagerfeld and now Blazy.