The Amalfi Coast, an idyllic region that wraps around Italy’s southern cliffs, is a bucket list locale for many. The roads wind romantically, the water is a calming azure, and the spaghetti alle vongole is plentiful—it’s the epitome of la dolce vita. There is arguably no other destination that evokes such a fantasy, having been glamorized in films like The Talented Mr. Ripley and waxed on poetically by authors like John Steinbeck. (“Positano bites back,” he once wrote.)
Steinbeck’s beloved Positano is just one town within the Amalfi Coast region: There’s also Praiano, its quieter and quaint neighbor. Or Ravello, the hilltop hamlet that offers sweeping views of the coast and beyond. And, of course, Amalfi, with its whitewashed buildings that sprawl alongside the sea.
But what, exactly, should one stay, do, and eat in this much-mythologized corner of the world? Here, find Vogue’s guide to the Amalfi Coast.
When to Go
The summer months of July and August are Amalfi’s high season. And with good reason: the Tyrrhenian Sea is sparkling, blue, and beckoning, the temperatures in the high eighties, and the citrus groves plump with lemons. It’s also the most crowded, and most expensive.
If you want a surefire scene, the summer is the time to go. Yachts dot the harbor of Positano, and the beach clubs are bouncing. An Aperol spritz or limoncello is never out of reach. However, those seeking a cultural experience should go in September or October, when the masses disperse, and the calmer charms of Amalfi emerge.
Where to Stay
Villa Margherita at Belmond Hotel Caruso in Ravello, Italy.Photo: Richard Powers / Courtesy of Belmond Villa Margherita