With his pre-fall collection, Zuhair Murad tuned into the music of the night. Picking up where his couture collection left off, the designer leaned into the concept of fly-by-night butterflies, lavishing saturated color and goth-tinged mystery on gossamer shapes for creatures that tend to rouse once the stars are out.
One of the season’s new developments was printed faille, worked into a full-length gown. Classic shapes and materials took on striking embroideries and prints: an animalistic motif was extrapolated from wings magnified to the nth degree, while a cotton poplin was covered, tie-dye style, with inky butterflies. Mini-dresses are appliquéd with 3D monarchs; elsewhere, a swarm alights on a classic coat, and arty mismatched buttons illuminated a structured jacket or a fitted skirt.
The designer experimented with lurex wools, giving them a denim-like treatment embellished with domed crystal buttons. Jackets were edged and darted with winking crystals, ditto trousers and bustiers. He flexed his range by offering diaphanous takes on naked dressing (in embroidered mesh with an integrated corset) on the one hand and, on the other, his stalwart taffeta gowns. In between, there were workwear-inspired numbers in white cotton poplin embellished with elements in black guipure, a fuchsia wool silk jacquard with the new ZM monogram that skews quasi-houndstooth, cady dresses with macramé rosettes, and easy champagne beige caftans. Silky draped jersey numbers in jewel tones—asymmetrical, off-the-shoulder, hourglass—should find plenty of takers.
Murad continues to collaborate with Taylor Swift on her world tour, which means that he has plenty of room yet to play with light and shadow, color and sparkle, and keep the fantasy going.