Georgina Chapman found inspiration far from home for her spring 2025 collection, looking to the Nemichi Shrine in Seki, Japan. The designer didn’t borrow aesthetics from the structure itself, but rather from the adjacent koi pond. Marchesa’s offering is an ode to water, with metallic fabrics mimicking light refracting off the water, wave-like lace appliqués, and fishtail silhouettes aplenty. Not everything was quite so aquatic, though: petal motifs dotted the collection like water lilies sitting atop the pond.
Even Chapman’s more subdued designs—like a black ruffled off-the-shoulder cocktail dress, or a pink strapless number—feature dramatic flourishes. “[They are] more for our classic customer who’s looking for something that’s not too obvious but wants to have some drama,” she said.
One dress, festooned with freshwater pearls, rhinestones, and delicate chains, looked as though it was rescued from a shipwreck. “[This] is our Marchesa quintessential beaded dress,” Chapman said of a blue gown with a plunging illusion V-neck, removable tulle cape, and a trail of rhinestones carving out an hourglass silhouette. Given that Chapman herself wore it to the Venice Film Festival premiere of The Brutalist, it’s safe to say she is the quintessential Marchesa woman.