Perched on a fishing beach called Punta Lobos about 15 minutes south of town is the 32-room Hotel San Cristóbal from famed hotelier Liz Lambert, where every single element—from swirly tiled floors to brightly woven blankets and terra-cotta-potted cacti—has been painstakingly executed for maximum sensory enjoyment. There’s a specifically modern delight that comes from noticing all the small details that make up the sum: The candlesticks in the library with their artfully dripped wax, the three large fireplaces tucked into different nooks, the curtains in the guest rooms with their pretty bamboo pulls, and the woodsy smoke of copal incense that trails you wherever you go. Even the setting of the sun—which is marked each evening with the ringing of a giant gong—feels perfectly orchestrated; it dips below the horizon in exact alignment with the pool, allowing for unobstructed views of the glowing Pacific from wherever you choose to lounge.
Photo: Nick Simonite / Courtesy of Hotel San Cristobal
The staff is made up almost entirely of locals who are quick to point out the region’s many treasures and the activities on offer to guests include several volunteer opportunities, like shepherding baby sea turtles back to the sea or fostering a local pup or helping out on one of the region’s farms. The hotel’s restaurant, Benno, is helmed by chef Alberto Collarte, who focuses his Baja-Mediterranean menu on the day’s fresh catch from the fishermen who share the beach with the hotel (and, if you so desire, will teach you how to make your own ceviche).
With its handsome brick exterior, this 19th-century private hacienda was once owned by a Spanish and has long been a landmark in old town Todos Santos; it’s just steps from the iconic Hotel California and was long known as the Todos Santos Inn. Recently, the property changed hands and was given an extensive and elegant renovation complete with 10 lush guest rooms, an opulent new restaurant, and a tranquil courtyard swimming pool shaded by archways and palms.
A stone’s throw from Cerritos Beach in Pescadero is El Perdido, a hotel made up of seven jacales, or huts, connected by cacti-framed pathways and common areas that include a fire pit and a pool lined with sumptuous sun beds. Activities abound with an outdoor pool table, ping pong, and foosball, though this is no basement game room. Thatched roofs let slivers of sun stream in, while rammed-earth walls on two sides keep the space calm and cool. Guests also get access to surfboards and an ATV to drive to the beach. Coyote, the on-site restaurant that’s open to everyone, serves up seasonal dishes focused on local fish from a classic Airstream trailer.
La Bohemia is a collection of six whitewashed adobe rooms tucked into an oasis of palm trees and cacti just a few blocks from the historic town center. Owned by a pair of California transplants who decided to put down roots in Baja after taking a road trip to the area several years ago, the sweet hotelito incorporates many traditional elements in its design: Otomi embroidered headboards, hand-painted Talavera tiles, and hand-woven textiles.
On a secluded stretch of Pescadero Beach, this just-opened, adult-only resort from Kimpton features 103 guest rooms, many of which feature terraces and private plunge pools. The vibe is minimalist Baja chic, featuring local textiles in crisp desert hues. There are also three restaurants, a coffee shop, and several pools—but aside from the gorgeous ocean and mountain views, the real star of the show is the 25,000 square foot wellness center with a full-service hydrotherapy spa, pickleball courts, and dedicated spaces for meditation, pilates, and yoga.
Airbnbs
Todos Santos has a wide array of Airbnbs on offer, among them Casa Notturno, a modernist home built into the hills just outside of town. With three bedrooms and four bathrooms—as well as a sunken living room—it’s perfect for a group stay. Stylish furnishings, a spacious kitchen, and a heated pool make it an ideal refuge after a long day at the beach. If Notturno is booked, try Casa Del Arte, a palm tree-dotted estate with arch-filled interiors, an outdoor kitchen, and a curving private pool. Stop by nearby Las Tunas Coffeeshop for an iced latte and farm-to-table breakfast in an airy setting.
Where to Eat
The best pastries in town are made by Julyanna Ortega and her team at Taller 17. Every morning brings a fresh array of sweets, from cinnamon buns to lemon meringue pie and a blondie that will stick in your mind for months after. This is the place to get cold brew, too.
You can’t go wrong with the farm-to-table fare at Jazamango, where chef Javier Plascencia serves up a menu of locally sourced fish—oysters, ceviche—as well as crowd-pleasers like burrata with heirloom tomatoes and wood-fired pizzas. Diners eat al fresco beneath vine-covered canopies at tables that are strategically placed so each party feels like they have their own private corner.
Outside of town, take advantage of the area’s stellar agriculture by dining on wood-fired pizza and super fresh salads at Hierbabuena, a charming alfresco restaurant located within an organic farm.
A drink at The Green Room is worth having any time, but especially so at sunset, when surfers are getting their last waves of the day and you can watch them from the restaurant with your feet in the sand and a mezcal in hand.
Barracuda Cantina is now serving up tacos and cocktails at Plaza Amigos, a downtown community space with shops, various food purveyors, and plenty of space to eat outside. Their original location is at Cerritos Beach, and both spots serve fresh ceviche and fish tacos (along with a fried avocado taco that will please vegetarians).
What to Do
Surfing
Surfing has a long history in Baja culture, and Playa Cerritos, located about 20 minutes south of town in Pescadero, is no doubt the most popular beach for newbies and experts alike; it’s relatively easy to get to (down another dirt road) and offers both a gentle beach break and a more adventurous rocky point break. Boards, wetsuits, and lessons are available from Mario Surf School, which is located in a tent on the north end of the beach near the Hacienda.