Blackheads may have gotten cutesy rebrands over the years—”strawberry nose,” for example—but they’re anything but charming, prompting leagues of skin-care shoppers to seek out the best blackhead removers. Unfortunately, blackheads can be quite stubborn spots to treat: Though they look like little specks of dirt, they’re actually blemishes. “Blackheads are a form of acne that causes small, dark bumps, most commonly on the nose, neck, and chin,” says Dr. Sean Alemi, double-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon in New York, NY.
Like whiteheads, blackheads are caused by a blend of dead skin cells and excess sebum trapped within the pore, but the pore remains open, allowing you to see the gunk inside. That’s also what gives blackheads their characteristic appearance, says Dr. Connie Yang, board-certified dermatologist at PFRANKMD by Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank in New York, NY. “When this mixture becomes exposed to oxygen, it oxidizes and turns dark in color,” she explains. Blackheads can be caused by myriad factors, including pore-clogging beauty products, excess oil production, and genetics.
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Because blackheads are technically acne, you can’t simply wash your face and expect them to disappear for good. The most effective blackhead removers are a combination of active ingredients and skin-care techniques, with salicylic acid being one of most popular and powerful options for combating clogged pores. While alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic and lactic exfoliate on the skin’s surface, “salicylic acid is lipophilic, which means oil-loving,” explains Dr. Kseniya Kobets, board-certified dermatologist at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care in Westchester, NY. “It goes deeper, penetrating the pores to clean out the oil and other debris within the oil gland.” Retinoids are also essential, as they decrease oil production in the skin while helping to treat existing blemishes.
While many people will be tempted to manually extract their blemishes at home, it’s typically best to leave the job to a professional (with some exceptions), as improper technique and unsterilized tools are a recipe for infection, scarring, or both. You can help improve the appearance of enlarged pores and blackheads by using an exfoliant, which will smooth out uneven texture. Alternatively, try a mask with clay or charcoal as a temporary fix, says Dr. Yang. “They work by drawing out impurities, oil, and other debris from the pores.”