First, consider the ingredients. Martin recommends looking for those that won’t make the lips feel sticky or overly greasy. Jojoba oil is a good option here, as it’s close in its molecular structure to the skin’s natural sebum—as is squalane, a stabilized version of the squalene naturally found in the skin barrier.
That said, emollients and oils don’t necessarily sink into the lips (rather, they coat them to create a smooth surface), so Martin recommends exfoliating and treating the lips ahead of application, since “lip oils don’t necessarily hydrate the lips as one might expect,” he says.
Shades
Lip oils come in a plethora of shades—and can be a low-risk way to experiment. “The color payoff is more like a stain, adding depth and enhancing your natural lip color,” says Riner. Thinner formulas tend to be more sheer, she says, whereas hybrids—like the Merit Shade Slick, above—have more color payoff, acting more like a gloss.
Feel and Finish
Most lip oils offer a shiny finish, which “looks healthy and fresh, but can get messy if over-applied,” says Riner. For that reason, a single swipe will often do the trick, but there are some buildable formulas that can be layered to increase the coverage. The texture varies, with some formulas offering a cushioned feel and others, a thin slip—so it’s ultimately a matter of personal preference.
Longevity
Lip oils aren’t known for their longevity, although there are some exceptions (like the Rare Beauty, which acts a bit more like a lip stain once it dries down.) To maintain color, Riner uses a gel-based lip liner ahead of the lip oil, which also lends definition and prevents feathering. However, expect a lip oil on its own not to last through lunch; layer it over a lip product to create an anchor.
Meet the experts
- Daniel Martin is a celebrity makeup artist whose A-list clientele includes Nicola Coughlan and Michelle Yeoh.
- Tonya Riner is a celebrity makeup artist whose clients include Kate Upton and Simone Biles.