Editor’s tip: Try this serum if other vitamin C formulas have caused irritation in the past—it features anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide and algae extract.
Key ingredients: vitamin C, kale, spinach, hyaluronic acid | Fragrance-free: yes
Frequently Asked Questions
Is there a wrinkle serum that really works?
That depends on how lofty your expectations are. If you’re expecting a swipe of serum to fully banish wrinkles, you’ll be disappointed. “There is no cream that will single handedly remove or erase wrinkles,” says David Kim, MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York City. However, he does note that some ingredients can make them look softer, in particular tretinoin, which calls into a category known as retinoids—forms of vitamin A that include retinol, retinal, and prescription-strength tretinoin.
“Retinoids accelerate the skin’s natural exfoliation process, encouraging the shedding of dead skin cells and the growth of new ones,” explains Dr. Morgan. “This enhanced cell turnover leads to smoother, fresher skin and helps diminish the appearance of fine lines.” Retinoids also stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, says Sobel, which helps firm up skin laxity. “Along with a physical sunscreen, regular use of retinoids keeps the skin firmer for a longer period of time, which keeps the overall face looking more youthful,” adds Lesley Rabach, MD, double board-certified facial plastic surgeon at LM Medical in New York City.
There are other ingredients that can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, including superstar antioxidant vitamin C. “Vitamin C is an amazing tool to help stabilize existing collagen and promote new collagen production,” says Dr. Lesley Rabach. “It also can help repair damaged skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.” Peptides—short chains of amino acids that build proteins—can help improve the appearance of wrinkles by boosting skin firmness and elasticity, reducing inflammation, and even limit muscle contractions (more on this shortly). For shallower, finer lines, you can try alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic and lactic acids to remove dead skin cells, which “can improve skin texture and reduce the visibility of wrinkles by making the skin smoother,” says Dr. Morgan Rabach. In short, while wrinkle serums aren’t necessarily miraculous (and certainly not instantaneous—building collagen takes time!), they can certainly make a difference.
What serum is closest to Botox?
You may have seen wrinkle serum formulas that are marketed as “Botox in a bottle” alternatives—these use active ingredients that function similarly to neurotoxins. “Argireline, or acetyl hexapeptide-8, works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters that signal muscles to contract,” explains Dr. Morgan Rabach. “This can help relax facial muscles, particularly in areas prone to expression lines, like around the eyes and forehead, and may reduce the appearance of lines in those areas.” According to Dr. Lesley, there are studies that show that this synthetic peptide can improve the depth of wrinkles by up to 30 percent. Sobel adds that peptide complex Matrixyl also offers impressive line-smoothing benefits.