Patatas bravas, usually translated as spicy potatoes, are a staple of tapas menus, yet all too often end up as the carby afterthought, a plate of soggy starch seemingly designed solely to soak up the sherry after the croquetas and jamón have been scoffed. Done well, however, with the potatoes hot and crisp, and the sauce rich and piquant, they can more than hold their own as the star attraction.
Prep 15 min
Cook 45 min
Serves 4-6
500g waxy potatoes
300ml olive oil (or a mixture of 150ml olive oil and 150 neutral oil)
Salt
1 small onion
1 red chilli – as hot or as mild as you like
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes
½ tsp sugar
½ tsp salt
1 tsp smoked paprika
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
1 egg
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
Chives, to serve (optional)
1 A note on the spuds …
Waxy potatoes are the best choice for this dish, because you want them to hold their shape, rather than disintegrate under the weight of the sauces (though, in truth, any variety will work). Common waxy varieties in the UK include maris peer, charlotte, anya and anything sold as a salad potato. Peel and cut them into roughly 2cm cubes.
2 … and on how to cook them
Usually, the potatoes for patatas bravas are fried, but I prefer to roast them, because they’re easier to control and it keeps them crisper. Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Once it’s come up to temperature, put two tablespoons of the olive oil in a roasting tin, then put it in the oven for five minutes to heat up.
3 Roast the potatoes …
Take the tin out of the oven, add the potatoes, season lightly with salt, then use tongs or a large spoon to toss them in the hot oil, so they’re all well coated. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until crisp and golden, stirring once halfway to ensure they colour evenly.
4 … or fry them
If you’d prefer to fry the potatoes, peel and parboil them in salted water until almost, but not quite, cooked – how long this takes will depend on the potatoes’ size, but it’ll probably be 10-15 minutes. Drain, return to the hot pan to steam dry, then cut into 2cm cubes. Fry these in plenty of olive oil on a medium-high heat, stirring often, until crisp and golden all over.
5 Now for the sauces
Meanwhile, make the sauces. Peel and finely chop the onion. Put two tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pan on a medium heat, then fry the onion, stirring often, for about seven minutes, until golden and soft. While it’s cooking, trim the chilli, discard the stalk, seeds and pith (especially if you prefer less heat), and finely chop the flesh.
6 Tinned or fresh tomatoes?
Stir the chilli into the onion, saute for another couple of minutes, then add the tomatoes; while they’re in season, you could use six fresh plum or other large ripe tomatoes instead, peeled (cut a small cross around the stem, drop the tomatoes in boiling water for a minute, then drain and skin) and chopped. Stir in the sugar, salt and smoked paprika.
7 Finish the tomato sauce
Bring the sauce to a boil, then turn down the heat and leave to simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, until thick and dark. Take off the heat, add a tablespoon of sherry vinegar, then adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Set aside, covered, to keep warm, until you’re ready to serve.
8 Make the allioli
To make the (optional) allioli, blitz the egg, garlic, remaining tablespoon of vinegar and a tablespoon of olive oil in the small bowl of a food processor (or use a large bowl and a whisk or hand blender). With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the remaining 200ml or so of olive oil (or, if you’re one of those people who don’t like the bitter taste of olive oil in large quantities, a mixture of olive and neutral oil), until the allioli has the consistency of double cream, then season to taste.
9 Finishing touches
Take the cooked potatoes out of the oven (or frying pan) and sprinkle them with a little salt. Spread the hot tomato sauce (warm it back up first, if need be) on a serving plate and pile the potatoes on top. Add a big dollop (or small dollops) of allioli, top with a sprinkling of chives, if using, and serve immediately.